Dating back to Incan times, the indigenous Uros people have lived on Peru’s floating islands of Lake Titicaca. At 3,820 meters (12,530feet), on the western shores of the highest navigable lake in the world, hunting, fishing and bartering goods has long filled the days of the Uros who left the mainland to protect themselves from the hostilities of their rivals, the Incas and the Collas.
Today the floating reed islands of Peru, just 6kms (4 miles) from Puno, have the double faced tribe of tourism to combat.
Peru’s floating communities include 70 islands created completely from native totoro reeds of the shallow waters of Lake Titicaca. The dense root system of the reed forms the base of the island. Creating an island is an ingenious, albeit arduous task.
The initial steps involve cutting squares from reed beds and lashing them together until they become an interwoven living foundation. The reeds then are piled horizontally on top to create a floor system which feels somewhat like walking on marshmallows. As the reeds rot they require continual reinforcement. (Remember this the next time you complain about your own home renovations.)
If the grouping of families on an island has difficulties with another family they are ‘cut off’ the island in the literal sense and set adrift to start their own new community.
The 2000 lives of the Uros people and their floating islands are completely intertwined with the totora reed. Not only a building material for their islands, but for constructing canoes and a staple of the diet, apparently remarkably good for dental hygiene. Used for medicinal purposes, the totoro has been a cornerstone of life on Peru’s floating islands for centuries.
Legends tell of the Uros people existing before the sun and that lightening would not harm them, nor could their lives be ended with drowning. Living in a spot where one can fall though one’s own floor and into a lake, let us hope this is more truth than mythology.
Picking up any guide book or perusing a travel website when planning a trip to Peru, one would be hard pressed not to glimpse an intriguing photo of Peru’s floating islands. Tourism has brought keen visitors in droves with money to purchase handicrafts made by the Uros women. In turn the ever growing tourist flow challenges the traditional lifestyle.
Why is tourism a challenge for Peru’s Floating Islands?
Anthropologist Arrufo Alcantara Hernandez, director of the faculty of social sciences at the Universidad Nacional del Altiplano in Puno explained to National Geographic, “The issues facing the people living on the floating islands are multifold. The waters of the Uros have been over fished by commercial fishermen, tourists are affecting their traditional culture and sewage from Puno is causing environmental and health problems.”
The totora reeds now grow shorter, whether it be from sewage or pesticide use on the mainland. With shorter reeds for reinforcing the islands, more work is required to keep the islands afloat. Should the reeds disappear the floating islands will in turn cease to exist.
The guide explains the impact of dietary changes as fast food has become available. With more time being spent on entertaining tourists, the maintenance of the islands, and there is much to maintain, is given less time.
The Uros people of Peru are extraordinarily friendly and keen to show how their reed islands, their homes and their handicrafts are created.
As the group sang us farewell, their last song being ‘My Bonny Lies Over the Ocean’, I couldn’t help but feel the negative side of tourism that I am a part of. Perhaps it is my imagination but as I stepped off the waterbed like island it seemed to sink just a bit farther under my weight.
I hear what you’re saying Sue, we want to look and experience this unique way of life but at the same time we’re worried about the impact. This was a theme back when I visited in the late 80s. I didn’t know that the reeds were growing smaller, that’s a concern. I like the thoughtful tone of this post.
Annie since you visited decades ago, perhaps the Uros people are finding ways to manage the challenges. I find the more I travel the more I am concerned about exploitation and what is helpful and what is harmful. I don’t think there is an easy answer. I appreciate your thoughts and feedback very much Annie.
I join my co-bloggers in appreciating your posts….
Which are not only interesting in their geographic meaning , but they are also thought-provoking through your perception of travel experience and love for nature and people….
I love you two!
I think I have to find the technology to hug through computer screens! I am a hugger in real life and these most generous comments, make me want to wrap my arms around you kind people. Thank you, thank you for the ongoing encouragement and support which we so very much appreciate!
Thank you 🙂 that is a really lovely thing to say.
Thanks to you , too!
You raised some very good points for the Uros people. I hope their way of life will endure, with or without tourism.
Thank you so much. I hold the very same hope.
Sue, you have voiced a concern I too have felt many times. With greater frequency I seriously worry about how selfish and unfriendly to the environment my love of travelling has become … not to mention the discomfort of visiting areas that are economically challenged knowing that the locals aren’t the main beneficiaries of our travel dollars.
You have just added another layer … are we outright damaging the culture and future wellbeing of the people we are visiting?
Another very thought provoking post.
Joanne I truly appreciate you sharing your own challenges with travel vs exploitation. In so many ways tourism brings prosperity but often it brings negatives too. In this most fragile environment one would be kidding oneself to think that there is no impact with nearby Puno’s growth and the stream of motorized boats heading to the islands. Yet a big part of me was so thrilled to see it. This post has been on my mind since our visit.
I think you have another Freshly Pressed on your hands … at least you should have 🙂
Joanne thank you from the bottom of my heart for that most generous compliment. I am humbled by your words. Truly!
<3
Agreed!!
Sincere thanks Lia. Very generous of you.
Sue, I hope you will take some comfort that, more than a lot of travelers, I think you and Dave are mindful of the backpackers’ motto of taking nothing but photos and leaving nothing but footprints where you make landfall. To that end, this post is especially thoughtful and thought-provoking. If there were no voices like yours, traveling for those of us who can’t or won’t, not to mention bringing back knowledge of the places you’ve been–mindful and caring voices–the world would be a much-diminished place. Lovely photos and story.
Leigh your most generous comment does indeed provide comfort. Thank you for your kindness so eloquently shared. I appreciate it very much.
Sue, even though these islands and the people who live on them are remarkable, I can see how their lifestyle and culture are threatened by tourism…It’s a double-edged sword of sorts, I suppose…Thank you for this candid look at how the Uros live…I had no idea about the floating islands of Peru before reading your posts…I’m grateful to learn more about the world through your blog! You, and Dave, have a great impact on us as your readers!
*Lia
Lia I am always so happy to share our journey, especially when it brings new information or ideas. Your description of the double edge sword perfectly describes this situation with the Uros. I very much appreciate your ongoing support and kind feedback today.
You raise an issue that is pertinent in many parts of the world, Sue. As travel has become easier and cheaper and thus more people can travel, the impact of tourism has become far-reaching. So many of our ancient monuments and natural wonders are now at risk. Thank you for so sensitively describing the challenges facing the Uros people, an even more concerning impact on a whole people and their way of life.
I do find this aspect of travel a real soul searching experience H. I often convince myself when we are in poorer countries that we are bringing our dollars to help people feed their children. some of that is definitely true but perhaps seeing the fragility of an entire people at risk, even though they are clearly encouraging tourism, well that leaves me in a quandry. I appreciate your thoughts and reflections very much.
This was a fascinating look at a part of the world I’m unlikely ever to have the chance to visit!
I was a bit surprised by the first picture, which seemed to suggest that the indigenous Uros people navigated their lake in giant, inflatable bananas. Luckily, the subsequent photos made clear that — despite the damaging effects tourism is having on their traditional lifestyle — things have not quite gotten to that stage yet.
Thank you for your comment. Yes at first glance the boats do look so smooth one might think they are made of plastic. They are tightly woven reeds. However I will add that almost every family now owns a small motorboat which they use to go to and from Puno.
A motorboat? Well, as long as it’s not banana-shaped, I guess….
Well a motorboat might be overstating it. Like a small metal fishing boat with a motor attached. No banana shapes noted. 🙂
Beautiful photos and a very thoughtful post, Sue. I hope the Uros people will really benefit from the extra income generated by tourism, without having their culture and traditional lifestyle spoilt. One thing is for certain though, as the Greek philospher Heraklitus said in the 5th century BC, “Nothing endures but change.”
Well that definitely sums it up very well Sylvia. Let’s hope for the Uros that it is at least sustainable change. Thank you for taking the time to reflect with me on this.
Great post Sue and incredibly informative. Tourism is that proverbial double edged sword…income vs changing a way of life! Great pics and well written! Thanks for sharing!!
Thank you Kirt. Yes definitely a double edged sword. In an environment such as the floating islands the blade becomes razor thin I am afraid.
Sad but fascinating! I’m glad you got to experience it!
I am glad to . If nothing else it increased my awareness of what tourism has the potential to do, both positive and negative, to a culture.
Two sides to each coin, most definitely. This hit especially close to home for me as I am currently planning a trip to Peru and this is one of the things in my research list. Thank you for the food for thought!
Kendra please know that the experience was an amazing one and the people definitely want tourists to visit. I certainly am not saying people should not go, it’s just that the visit left me reflecting on the impact I have as a traveler.
A race who have to literally ‘knit their own island’ deserve to flourish, Sue. Amazing to me that this notion was ever conceived of! How can we deny them a few western luxuries for their efforts? Let’s just hope they’re survivors! Thank you for highlighting the problems 🙂
The whole concept is ingenious. Having a war well just go off and build your own land in the middle of a lake. Incredible actually. Definitely one hopes that the short term benefits of tourism and money outweigh the possible long term effects. I always appreciate your thoughtful and reflective comments Jo. Thank you.
Excellent post dear Sue ? ?… Thanks for sharing information about the Uros and the problems Tourism might entrain in the long term… A good way to raise awareness on the subject, aiming to avoid future problems… Wonderful photographs, as well!. All my best wishes! Aquileana :star:
Thank you so kindly Aquileana. I left the islands with such mixed feelings and have been thinking on it ever since. All my best to you and many thanks for your shares on Twitter which I appreciate immensely.
I appreciate Your post highly. It contains a lot of info and gorgeous photos, which arouse viewer’s curiosity. Thank You. I have not visited the site, although I visited in Lima alreaady in the 1970’s many times obtaining big amount of Long Playing records containing happy, tropical music – Cumbia.
I imagine Peru , especially tourism, has changed somewhat since then. It would be interesting to know what the floating islands looked like back then! Thank you so kindly for your generous feedback.
very informative and thought-provoking post, Sue. thank you for being thoughtful and for sharing. i hope that tourism will help the Uros people sustain and preserve their culture. beautiful photos and story. 🙂
Thank you so much Lola. I very much hope as you do sustainable and prosperous lives for the Uros.
You raise such an interesting point Sue. I too, have given thought to the negative impact tourism has on various parts of our planet. I am fascinated to learn about different cultures & to have the opportunity to witness such magical places, but at the same time, I can’t help but wonder about the damage we are doing with the throngs of tourists who share my interest.
Lynn we are definitely reading from the same page. I love travel, the people, the culture, the history, the sights, the food and yet in places so fragile as this, even when tourism is encouraged, are we really doing the people any favours?
Very interesting and thought provoking post. I wonder how the Uros people themselves feel about tourism? Except it’s not just tourism- it’s technology and “advancement” in general. Just because we CAN do something- should we? More people, more pollution, climate change, processed foods, etc. It’s bound to spill over into these small unique communities eventually, with or without tourism. One positive aspect of tourism is that it gives the Uros a reason to keep traditional ways of life active and taught to new generations, because it has now become a source of income. As long as they have control over this and are not exploited by third parties, it may be the best way to balance the new “normal”.
Sue you bring up some very good points and I am grateful to have that balance. As long as the Uros people have control and as far as I know they do. When we left the island I was left thinking about this issue. When we got home and I did a bit of research about the impact on the reeds I became more concerned. But what really hit me was in studying the photos once home and some of the captures of the face of the woman with the dark hair. Could have been a bad day for all I know but she did not seem happy that’s for sure. I would have loved to have had some discussion with her and others.
Thank you so much for your thoughtful feedback. I appreciate it very much. I hope your world is more manageable these days.
Well we all have bad days, right? Or maybe tourism is a necessary evil she resents. I don’t think that should sway you from traveling to other places. We all have times we hate our jobs. 🙂
Sue I would love to know if she resents how her world has changed over the decades.
Be assured the traveling will continue although I may be more aware and mindful of what impact I may be having as we go.
What a colorful place! I love the boats, they are beautiful. It reminds me of the floating fishermen village in Borneo/Kalimantan Island that I have visited. Tourists usually visited the area for its uniqueness and as it is also the entrance to enter the forests and Dayak’s hidden villages. Similar issues happened to the villagers (and the Dayaks) due to tourism. I share similar thought with Sue – there is always negative aspect of tourism especially when tourism is their only main income. Perhaps it is important to introduce another alternate income from other type of industries that applied locally. Other than that, I hope most travelers are being a responsible traveler (gosh, i just hate certain type of tourists who are deliberately throwing away their garbage on the ocean and land!)
Indah I am so interested to hear of the villages in Borneo and the similarities of challenges to those in Peru. Are they made from reeds as well?
I will say that the tourists seem very respectful. The bookings are made in advance and rotated between families on the islands. Here’s hoping the respectful relationship continues., I am with you in being outraged at tourists who leave garbage, even be it verbally, in their traveling footsteps.
Thank you so kindly for sharing this Indah. A wonderful addition to the post.
This is a very interesting post ! You raised an interesting topic here, but it’s difficult to answer. Of course, tourist brings negative aspect, but the money generated by tourism also helps them in many ways… Promoting eco tourism would be an awesome idea.
It really is a double edge sword as so many others have said. At this point at least the entry is controlled and not just boats arriving any old time of day and night. I can see so much good in it but if the reeds actually cease to grow what a sad day that will be.
Well said, thought provoking and quit the conundrum Sue. In science they call this the “observer effect,” which essentially means that the act of measuring will impact the measurement. As tourists, no matter how sensitive and careful we are, there is no way to avoid affecting the people and their daily lives – it’s baked in the cake. The trick is to make the experience mutually beneficial. The line between helping and exploiting can be very thin, no matter how hard we try. Great comments BTW. ~James
James I am very taken with the ‘baked in the cake’ description. It did seem to me that the tourists were very respectful and certainly purchased their fair share of handicrafts, as did I. But with every extra step on those fragile islands you are so right we can not help but impact the places we visit.
As you well know I am always delighted to have you and Terri weigh in and share your thoughts. I agree the comments on this post are insightful, reflective and generous. I am grateful indeed.
Enjoyed this post. Learned much here, Sue. At the same time, we need to be careful not to overromanticize ways of life that may be quite difficult. Now even more difficult with environmental concerns. I’m all for cleaning the lakes, finding building materials that would make their homes safer/more durable.
Thank you for your insightful comment Jean. It is hard ot know what the Uros people would want or even if they feel they need help. It would be most interesting to be able to talk about the issue with them.
A very enjoyable and interesting post, Sue; and yes, a tricky question re tourism. I have so enjoyed your trip to South America! 🙂
I appreciate having you along Jet! I have been thinking about the Uros since our visit. I am so hopeful the tourism they have sought out doesn’t destroy their way of life.
Sue I love your adventure oriented approach to life but I also appreciate your environmental and social consciousness. Through your travels you raise awareness of the issues many of us may remain unaware of. Thank you for the fascinating insight into these wonderful villages and the people who live here and the plight they face. What’s the next step I wonder?
Such a very good question as to what life on the floating islands will look like in 10 or 20 years. Currently all tours are booked and there is a rotation system between families. Hopefully they will not be flooded with boats and tours and can maintain their way of life. Many thanks for your most kind feedback which I appreciate immensely.
so colorful and nicely documented 🙂
I appreciate the kind words. Many thanks.
Very informative post Sue. There does seem to be a double-edged sword to tourism for these people.
Thanks LuAnn. Yes there is no easy answer I’m afraid.
Fascinating…It is so true about the importance of education to travel. Such a great post, the images where really great.
Thank you kindly Charlie. Your feedback means a great deal to me.
Wow, I can’t believe another week has gotten away on me! Sorry I missed this one – an excellent and thought-provoking post!
Thanks Diane. The Uros people and their islands have been on my mind a lot.
Wow that is amazing. I’ve heard about these people before, maybe in school, but your pictures and explanations gave me much more information about their lives. I found this fascinating.
So glad to share this with you. The Uros people and their ingenious islands will be one of my lasting memories of Peru.
You continue to make your posts so much more than just another travel blog. You raise an important dilemma here and whether or not the Uros people will become totally dependent on tourism…a line that may already have been crossed. Great post.
Your comment really means a lot to us. We definitely want to be something different in the sea of travel blogs. Thank you!
I am afraid the Uros people, as with perhaps all of us, can not roll back the clock. I do wonder if some of them wish they could.
You make some great points. Tourism has the power to preserve and destroy. I am sure the people have had many good things come from tourism, but you point out the problems. It is hard for these traditional ways to co-exist with the modern world.
Jeff my guess in your adventurous travels you have seen other situations where tourism presents a double edge sword. No easy answers I’m afraid.