Lining both sides of the road into the surfing paradise of Sayulita Mexico, vehicles parked so tightly one might think a helicopter would be needed to hoist them out the end of the day. Precisely enough space remained between the solid lines for half a smart car to pass through with ease.
What’s that you say? Oh yes you are correct. There were no smart cars, nor half ones for that matter.
Not so sleepy Sayulita Mexico
In a scene reminiscent of the cooperative traffic chaos of Istanbul, our taxi driver, in his over-sized suburban, weaved backward, forward and sideways navigating the road which resembled the width of a sidewalk. At one point it seemed as if he may have had the vehicle tipped on it’s side for a particularly delicate maneuver allowing a truck loaded with people, chickens and vegetables to squeeze by.
I closed my eyes most of the time and sucked in my stomach in hopes that might somehow allow for more room.
Situated 25 miles north of the bustling city of Puerto Vallarta, Sayulita Mexico with it’s rolling waves, was discovered by surfers in the 1960’s. Known as an off-the-beaten-track destination of Mexico, in the desirable area of Riviera Nayarit, surfers of all ages and abilities come for the conditions and laid back atmosphere. Now with it’s quaint shops and restaurants, not to mention famous waves, tourists flock to see the ‘real’ Mexico.
With a population of approximately 5000 people, the Christmas and New Year peak season tourist draw causes population growth of the wee gem to explode in volcanic proportions. Our afternoon foray into the eclectic mix of locals and tourists felt as though every inhabitant and visitor had been given a memo to arrive to the surf mecca simultaneously.
In the late 1990’s the town was still described as a tranquil fishing village. Although Sayulita retains it’s laid back-chilled out vibe, tranquil could hardly be part of the description.
What is the best time of year to visit Sayulita Mexico?
When we asked locals they advised us the winter holiday season of Christmas was by far the busiest time of year. You think? Their suggestions for a quieter time but before the temperatures cause visitors to melt in pools of sweat, was April. Our guess would be that Easter and spring break would create similar scenes of tourist mayhem.
Have you ever visited a location described as laid back or the real only to find you should have arrived a couple of decades earlier?
Rather too busy for my liking Sue, and I think four decades ago might be the time to have discovered a lot of these places. I like the sound of a quiet fishing village. I wonder if there are any left?
Let’s be on the watch for a sleepy fishing village in our travels Jude. If one is found let’s be sure not to tell anyone. 🙂
Too right Sue!
Please include me on the list for the quieter places! 🙂
We found a few quiet gems in Scotland …
Do tell of Scottish finds! Would love to tuck those travel tidbits away.
Ah, yes, Scotland has some very quiet beauties.
Jude I have only spent 48 hours in Scotland and loved every second. I had a lovely day in Aberdeenshire in some very quiet and quaint wee towns.
It is a country I must explore more of, have only had a few days up there – not enough!
Oh yes I think you would love it Jude! The coast is stunning and of course all of those castles.
I visited Gold Coast in Australia few months back and Bondi Beach in Sydney too. This place sounds a mix of both – Gold Coast has perfect beaches and Bondi is a great place for Surfers.
I loved your travel experience, it looks a pretty place 🙂
Thanks so much for sharing your travel experience. We are headed to Australia in a few weeks!
Sayulita is a pretty spot but very crowded at peak season.
Great, good luck with Aus trip !
Thank you! We will do some posting as we travel with all the technology gods cooperation. 🙂
Oh my, so many people! I suspect it was a great place to people watch though!
Lynn it was indeed great for people watching. We had the mindset of visiting a quaint town and so went with unrealistic expectations.
How is the recovery coming along?
Recovery is coming along nicely. Said goodbye to my sling today & got my driving ability ok’d. Yeehaw😬😀😃
That is amazing Lynn! So happy to hear that. 🙂
Never had that experience I admit. We’ve been to Puerto Vallarta and other cities in Mexico, the usual tourists traps. Nice placed👍🏻❤️
John as I mentioned to Lynn in the previous comment I think we just went with the wrong expectation. When one knows somewhere will be easy you can have the right mindset.
Our visit to Puerto Vallarta, not far from Sayulita, was a similar experience; though it wasn’t a holiday. Even just walking on the beach watching the humans was plagued with constant pestering by locals, approaching us to sell their wares. There were beautiful sights, though, the beach was gorgeous, and I am still thinking about the food, it was so incredible. The fun thing about Mexico is there is nowhere else on earth like it. Great photos Sue, and you exhibited a good essence of the area (and fun to read, as always). 🙂
Jet we stayed for the week over Christmas in the Nayarit area near Puerto Vallarta. We have been to several locations in Mexico and always love it. Those selling in our experience not aggressive and willing to take a polite no thanks. Thank you for the kind feedback Jet. Always as though getting a hug in the comments section. Much appreciated.
I don’t think “tranquil” would be a word I’d use to describe it either. I’m not sure I’d call it “the real Mexico” either, though I’ve never been to Mexico so I might easily be wrong about that. In any case, my eyes are still suffering from color overload from the last three scenes! It looks very loud for a quiet place.
Having said all that, though, I’d still go there in a heartbeat if given half a chance. I like quiet places, but busy touristy places can be a lot of fun too if I’m in the right mood (and happen to have a wheelbarrow full of money with me). 🙂
The good news Bun is that it didn’t seem overly expensive there although we only had a few hours. Yes color on steroids and in some corners of the town it was quiet and peaceful. I agree if one goes with the right expectations busy can be fun. Istanbul is always my fall back example of that.
Oh, I’d love to visit Istanbul. It’s in my top ten list. I have been to Hong Kong, though, and really enjoyed the bustling atmosphere there.
I haven’t been to Hong Kong so can’t compare but my guess is you would love Istanbul Bun. The story material for you would be endless.
It’s definitely on my list of places to go!
I hope it happens for you Bun. Turkey is always high in our suggested travel list.
Fingers crossed.
I don’t mind a bit of busyness and crowds, but “a bit” are the operative words. I enjoy the buzz for a while, but after a bit I want to get away from it. Beaches in particular I don’t like if they’re very crowded and you have to hunt to find a space. But bustling around a market with a bunch of people is fine. I always love the vibrant colours of Mexico!
I agree a bit is all right but preferably not on the beach. Nothing like rubbing shoulders literally on a beach blanket. The colors make me so happy especially in the thick of Canadian white winter.
I enjoy having people around so I would be OK with it. My aunt and I went to Todos Santos, North of Cabo San Lucas about ten years ago. It was quiet but interesting. Many of the artists living there welcomed you into their home to see their work and have a chat. I wonder if it is still like that. We have found some quiet little out of the way places here in Spain as well.
Darlene I am smiling at the thought of you discovering these small gems in Spain. It must be wonderful.
It would be interesting to have a time lapse of towns frequented by tourists over a couple of decades to see what transpires.
The beaches in Mexico are lovely, but I’ve only seen them on cruises. We haven’t stayed at one of the resorts–safety concerns, I guess. But I imagine it would be wonderfully relaxing.
The resort we were at was fabulous Carrie. This was an afternoon side trip as I had heard about this amazing surf town off the beaten track. The track apparently underwent a stampede. 🙂
“…and sucked in my stomach in hopes that might somehow allow for more room” – LOL! I know that feeling…
I don’t think Sayulita will be a destination for me anytime soon… okay, EVER. I prefer my population density more like one or two per square mile, not per square foot.
I would love to see this place in the off season. It really seems like a cool spot should a few thousand or so folks disappear into thin air. 🙂
LOL! I’m sorry to say that’s the way I feel about most places.
You could start working on your magic wand tricks. 🙂
I’m afraid the other tourists might not approve, though, especially if they were the ones that got ‘vanished’. 😉
True enough. The devil is in the details. 🙂
We have been to Puerto Vallarta, but didn’t know about this spot. (I think it was on a cruise from San Diego and limited stop)…anyway…beautiful area. We have spent time in Cancun and Cabo just before they were discovered and since…big difference for both. Hope you had a great time!!
We had a great week in the area Kirt. I can only imagine the transformation of these Mexican tourist meccas. I have really been thinking a great deal about the effect of tourism on a destination. Very mixed feelings as one who promotes travel.
It’s kind of a catch 22 for the locals
That’s for sure Kirt. An economic benefit but what a change in culture.
B.u.s.t.l.i.n.g. 😀 😀 I’m not comfortable in crowds (of people or cars 😀 ). Love all the color though and your camera’s photography. Yeah. Yeah. I know you have to push the button. Between the camera operator and the camera performing, the pictures are amazing. <3
Tess you are very good for my ego. Thank you for the generous words. Bustling definitely fits Sayulita! Would love to drop in during the off season for a look.
Most places are like that. Nostalgics say “you should have seen this place 30 years ago”. I suspect that in 30 years time we will say the same. Progress!
Yes I am sure you are right Andrew! I always feel old when I say one should have seen something decades prior. “Back in the good old days!” 🙂
I’ve always had a hankering to go away for the Christmas holidays, but I’ve also suspected it would be tourist pandemonium. The photos of the beach scene pretty well said it all :/
The sign which included “Monkey Mountain” caught my eye. I would be intrigued! Is that just the name of the mountain, or is it really full of monkeys?!!
Well that is a really good question Joanne of which I don’t know the answer in afraid. I do want you to know this was not where we stayed but an afternoon side trip that we took. Our resort was amazing and spacious and relaxing. This not so much. 🙂
ahhh – that’s better 🙂
Side trips into chaos is ok!
Yes it would not have made for a great full week that is for certain!
Peggy and I have spent a lot of time in Puerto Vallarta… definitely not laid back, and yes I do think it would have been special around the time “The Night of the Iguana” was created. On another note, several years ago we spent a month in the small town of Mulege on the Baja Peninsula. It really fit the description at the time of an ideal sized Mexican village. There was a small community of expats but no tourists. A small creek ran by our camp that we could put our kayaks in and kayak out into the gulf. –Curt
Curt that sounds marvellous and especially since Dave and I recently booked a kayak trip in the south Baja off the grid for a week! So excited at the thought and by your description!
We loved it. I am sure you will as well. I’m envious. –Curt
I will take you along in my virtual backpack Curt. 🙂
I am really beginning to like your virtual backpack!
Excellent! 🙂
It looks lovely despite the chaos of the crowds. I guess it’s all relative. Most tourists that I speak to think that Tasmania is so quiet with hardly any visitors. I just had to dash from my office to the library in quiet little Deloraine and in the space of less than 100m encounters three groups of people speaking three different languages none of them English. It’s feeling like we have people everywhere but the tourists keep telling me how quiet it is here.
I am smiling Annie as you are so right in that it is all relative. I think Tasmania is becoming a more popular destination. Looking forward. To being one of those tourists!
I had a chance to travel along Steinbeck’s Monterey coast before they turned it into a bustling tourist destination. There was so much soul in Steinbeck’s world; sometimes it’s just too hard to have a foot in two totally different worlds, I think it is better for me to appreciate what Sayulita is now, enjoy that beer on the beach and listen to the waves amidst the teaming of humanity.
Charlie this is a fabulous perspective. Embrace what is now not what it was. I’m going to remember that. Thank you!
Sue, that is Crazy. I’d ready about that area being peaceful as well but your photos show otherwise.
Ubud in Bali comes to mind as a place that I visited about 2 decades too late. I expected a peaceful place and did not find that, luckily there are lots of cool places in Indonesia though so I found what I was looking for in other places.
Jeff I feel like I want to steal your itineraries form your amazing extended trips. As Badfish teases us for planning out the details I love a solid itinerary. Should we ever head to Indonesia I’m going to be very keen to hear about these fabulous cool spots.
Looked like a packed beach there, and a packed beach side town. I am sure you still had a good time and managed to take in the sights. Every time I visit Malaysia (Kuala Lumpur, the capital), it is crowded no matter the time of the year 😀
When you do come and visit Australia, keep in mind it is always quite bustling in the city centre 😀
Mabel thanks for the heads up. We are used to crowds in cities no problem. This likely was around expectations of off the beaten path destination that threw us off. Thanks for sharing your experience in Kuala Lampur. I will remember that if we ever go.
Looks nice place for a vacation. Last photo is my favorite one.
Thankfully we were just visiting this spot as a side trip. Our week long stay was about 39 minutes away in a calmer spot. 🙂
I don’t think that quite qualifies for Off-The-Beaten-Track status any more.
I’ve seen it happen along the Great Ocean Road. Small holiday towns that are now crammed with the wealthy, trendy, beautiful people every summer. As one became unaffordable for the people who work there to even live there and they moved along the coast, so would, eventually, the city slicker crowds. We used to holiday in one of those towns when I was a kid, when it was one of your tranquil fishing villages. I find it too depressing to go there now.
(PS You’ll be there during term time. You’ll be fine. 😀 )
As I was reading your comment I was thinking “Oh NO!”. Can I ask what term time means? So sad when tourism impacts areas this way. I have been thinking a lot about the negative impact of travel since our trip to Peru. Makes me wonder some times.
1. We’re blessed with a multitude of good beaches so even in peak season, I doubt our coastal towns would look like Sayulita.
2. Term time – when kids are at school, non-holiday time. The busiest time for the coast is December/January. It starts to quiet down in February as the families pack up the caravans and move back for the start of school. Early March will be even quieter because no one’s going to bother trekking down there when the Easter school holidays are only a few weeks away.
3. My viewpoint is because I loved those holidays as a child and they hold special memories for me. It’s hard to see it all change. But it isn’t necessarily all bad. I just don’t like it personally.
Thanks for the explanation. I was guessing term time referred to school. Glad to hear things will be quieter in March.
I agree it becomes even more challenging when one knew a spot as a peaceful getaway and it turns into a three ring circus location.
And to be fair, now I think of it, we used to holiday there outside the summer season (we weren’t really beach people) so it was really quiet.
Well it sounds like your family was very wise!
It’s not the kind of beaches that I would fancy (is it the disappointment you were talking about earlier ?), but I would have enjoyed the market. I think a lot of places are different these days, as travelling is becoming more popular and more affordable.
Yea the crowds in a market are reasonable and expected but a little more challenging on a beach. I agree we the travelers are making big changes to the world. I always remind myself that I am part of the issue.
Sometimes, when I hear people that were already travelling a lot 25 years ago being bitter… I can understand why. within a few years, some destinations have changed so much.. I can imagine over 25 years ! What a shock it must be !
Yes almost like getting in a time travel machine!
I have no desire to visit during the peak season. I can’t stand crowds. Shoulder to should on the beach isn’t my idea of fun. As some of the comments (and you) pointed out expectations play a huge role in our perception of a place.
Definitely good to know what one’s tolerance of crowds is prior to planning a trip. Istanbul is always my marker of masses of humanity. We loved our time there however as discussed we were well prepared and expecting the crowds.
One positive thing about crowded tourist towns is the increased availability of people watching opportunities. I can only imagine (thankfully) what they see down there during busy season.
I read in one of your comments that you are going to Australia in a few weeks? I heard they have gigantic spiders there so you won’t find me booking a flight there anytime soon. Not even for all the shirtless Hugh Jackmans in the world. Lol. Can’t wait to see your photos and read about your daring spider escape!
Spiders and more poisonous snakes than anywhere on the planet they tell me. You may hear the screeches all the way back here. 🙂 In all seriousness apparently it’s rare to see a snake.
I’ll expect a complete spider and snake report upon your return! 🙂
I imagine there will be a detailed report should there be such encounters! 🙂
It’s funny how a description of a place can conjure up a vision that doesn’t match reality. I think a lot of places seem to have their tourist description and then reality. I’ve been to quite a few of those. I guess if it was an actual fishing village it wouldn’t want or need to try and attract tourists.
Definitely it became my own vision of what pretty Sayulita should look like that was the problem. I wonder if the town has a web cam so we could see it in the off season. Perhaps my vision would match a bit better then.
What a great idea!
Great photos. Yep, looks a little too crowded in peak season for me. We had the same experience in Rio. Copacabana was a nightmare. But an hour or so north, beaches (and restaurants) were secluded and amazing. Barra da Tijuca was one of our favorites. However, with the coming Olympics– I doubt if it still has the charm it did a few years ago 🙁
That’s surprising Wendy that only an hour away was peace and tranquillity. Good point about the Olympics. I wonder what is going on now.
love the bright colors, but it’s a little crowded for my taste.
I loved those colors too Donna Jean. Apparently so did thousands of others. 🙂
That beach looks much too crowded for my liking. I think half a dozen people is about my limit. I’m very unsociable. 🙂 I remember The Isle of Capri as being much more crowded than I expected. Definitely should have visited at least a couple of decades ago.
Oh yes that is a prime example Sylvia. Although I don’t think you are unsociable by any means, no matter how extroverted we might be its always nice not to have someone else’s elbow in your eye on the beach. 🙂
Very true. When we lived almost right on the beach in South Africa, I got so used to there hardly being anyone on ‘our’ stretch of beach, that I felt quite affronted if I went down there and found more than four people using it. 🙂
I remember some of your photos of the beach Sylvia. I apologize as I don’t remember the location. Where did you live?
Thanks, Sue. It was a seaside town called Umhlanga Rocks just north of Durban. It used to be a little village, but over the years, many high ride apartment have been built along the main beach. Our house was about a mile away from the main tourist area, so was very quiet, as the lifeguards were only on the main beach, so families didn’t come up there.
Thanks so much Sylvia. South Africa has come up on our travel radar so just starting to gather info. 🙂
So much to see there. You’ll love it. 🙂
I think we will! Nothing scheduled yet but thinking on it.
It’s a little crowded for my taste, too. . . though it’s cold and snowy here, and the warm weather looks good.
Yes the break from our snow was lovely. Thankfully this was an afternoon outing from our much more relaxed resort.
so colorful 🙂
Indeed Joshi. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing. Sayulita. Now I know where I need to travel…
I will suggest the off season. 🙂
I agree, it’s not exactly your tranquil beach spot but it does look like a fun and colourful place. I remember once holidaying at beach north of here that is usually quite quiet. However, on this particular Christmas Day we were shoulder to shoulder with the people next to us on the beach. The beach was so crowded I could not stretch my arms over my head, while lying on my towel, without touching the toes of the person on the next towel. Not my cup of tea. To add insult to injury the water was like soup, it was so warm. But it was an experience I will always remember. Lol.
That is a great attitude Shannyn! These experiences create memories and stories for sure. I always prefer not to be touching stranger’s toes on the beach. 🙂
We were literally like sardines in a hot can. I’m not much into toe touching, or any touching of strangers on the beach, either. Lol.
Haha fair enough! 🙂
I have to say, I do not remember ever turning up somewhere marked as “tranquil” and found it packed. That may be because I tend to really dig when the “tranquil” claim is brought up, I hate to be disappointed that way.
You are very wise Amy. I had read it would be busier since it was high season but I certainly had not prepared myself for this!
I have a two words that would describe that crowded beach but I can’t say them on here. 😉
But the vibrant colors from your town photos are spectacular. I bet the food was awesome.
As for what places looked like 30 years ago. I could name several that have actually changed for the better. How cool is that!
Well do tell about those places Nancy! Would love to know.
Thanks for the lovely feedback. Lots to love about Sayulita and lots of folks obviously do.
The beach does look busy, but looks very colorful and fun, I bet there are a lot fun things to do there. We went to Tampa Bay during Christmas holidays, the beach was packed and no place to park your car.
Even though busy Sayulita did have a very friendly feel. We were just there for half a day and at a quieter spot the rest of the time. I can imagine that Florida would have been very busy too!
I don’t know there is a quiet beach unless it’s cold. 🙂
Probably not in Florida that’s for sure!
and not in Hawaii… 🙂 Have a great day, Sue. Is it still cold where you are?
Yes still winter here Amy but it’s a mild one. We are off to Australia and Fiji in a couple of weeks though.
Gosh, that’s certainly too busy for me, Sue. It is incredible how many people occupied the beach..oh, that reminds me of Playa Del Carmen 😀 I guess most beaches in Mexico is extremely popular nowadays!
Definitely a big tourist destination for those in North America looking to escape winter Indah.
How are you adjusting to the snow?
Half a smart car? I would think a bike or two would be able to maneuver around a lot easier.
Excellent idea! Cycling in Mexico. I will have to give it some thought. 🙂
Glad to help.
Such colourful writing and colourful pictures…loved this blog! Thanks
So glad you enjoyed it! Your feedback is appreciated very much.
oh yes, I love your blog, it’s one of the best travel ones about I believe…such cute writing, very engaging. HAve you been to Madagascar, as a friend is thinking of going there and I’d be interested on your perspective.
Lilith what a generous thing to say. I so appreciate the feedback. Unfortunately I have not been to Madagascar so can’t offer any help.
We love Mexico but haven’t been to the Puerto Vallarta area for a few years. Looks like this might be an area worth revisiting
It is a lovely area but might I suggest avoiding peak season? 🙂
Yes it sounds like a busy place
Indeed! If you want a spot of San to yourself I would suggest avoiding Christmas.
I was there in September. It was a little warm and very much a sleepy fishing village. Nothing like the photos in this article.
Rebecca that’s great to hear! Just one more reason to travel in the off or shoulder season.
What a shame! However I think this is a growing occurrence…and as I refer to in my latest post, perhaps bloggers are partly to blame! Quiet little Iceland definitely seems to be getting bombarded these days.
Yes I think we are indeed part of the problem. It has definitely been on my mind this past years since visiting the floating Reed islands in Peru. Tourism has brought money but on the other hand the pollution from nearby Puno is affecting the reed growth. No easy answers now that the world has become so mobile. I appreciate your thoughts on this. We should have gone to Iceland a decade ago!
What a shame! However I think this is a growing occurrence, and as I refer to in my latest post, perhaps bloggers are partly to blame! Quite little Iceland is definitely getting bombarded these days.
Thanks for the laughs, Sue. Wonderful writing 🙂
Thanks kindly Paula. So glad you enjoyed the post.
Sayulita looks very nice …. A little bit too crowded for me though…. It reminded me of our beaches in Mar del Plata …
Many hugs dear Sue. Aquileana 😀
Yes I am thinking you would see many crowded beaches dear Aquileana. Big hugs back to you my friend.
Thanks for the photos and article. Would love to visit and try the surf first hand!
You are most welcome. It’s a fun place to visit but would definitely recommend off season.
Thanks for this! I too had heard that Sayulita is a quieter place to see the more authentic Mexico.
Good to hear your first-hand experience.
Happy to share and really appreciate you taking the time to comment. Thank you!
I was googling Mexican travel alternatives to crowded Sayulita and your blog came up:) We had the same experience last April when we took a day trip from Punta Mita. I felt claustrophobic w/ the combination of crowds on narrow windy streets. With all of the Europeans and Americans it didn’t even feel like Mexico!
Thanks for your visit Sara and taking the time to comment. It seems we are a couple of decades too late in visiting Sayulita. Hoping you found a quieter spot to enjoy beautiful Mexico.