On postcards, guidebooks and decorating walls of Thai airports is the image of the Buddha head in tree roots. Countless times, even before we departed for Thailand, the fascinating image of the Buddha head embedded in a banyan tree would flash on my computer screen as I researched all things Thai.
I could never decide if the Thailand Buddha head looked as though it was about to be devoured in sacrifice or if the Banyan tree Buddha felt wrapped safely and securely.
So how exactly did the Buddha head become entangled in the tree roots? Perhaps the mystery and speculation is part of the fascination that draws thousands of tourists to the temple of Wat Mahathat in Ayutthaya each year.
Some believe the Thai Buddha is simply a forgotten item. The tree roots swallowing and transforming it from a Buddha head to a Buddha tree during a time when the temple lay empty and abandoned.
Other theories are more sinister, suggesting the Buddha face being stolen from the main area of Wat Mahathat and left on the edge of the temple area to be reclaimed at a later date. One could guess the Buddha head statue proved too heavy to move farther or that the thief never returned.
Or perhaps the roots swallowed the thief as well! Now that’s how rumors get started. There is no evidence of that whatsoever, no matter how riveting a story it would make.
Ayutthaya through the ages
A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1991, Ayutthaya is a riverside city founded in 1350. Destroyed in the 18th century by the Burmese, it was once one of the world’s giant urban and cosmopolitan centers.
After the capital was burned to the ground in 1767, all inhabitants of Ayutthaya abandoned the city. Although never rebuilt in the same location, it remains as an extensive archaeological site of multiple Ayutthaya temples. Arguably it is Thailand’s equivalent to Cambodia’s Angkor Wat.

Headless Buddhas in Ayutthaya – Perhaps the original placement of the tree head Buddha before it was lopped off its body?
What to know about visiting Wat Mahathat
As tourism surges worldwide, one of the common complaints of locals, is the disrespect for culture and religion. These Thailand temples and ruins are sacred places and rules are in place for visitors to follow.
Near the entwined Buddha head, visitors are asked to leave a respectable distance between themselves and the tree home of the Buddha. Photos are permitted. However to demonstrate courtesy, pictures should be taken from a kneeling or crouching position. Men are encouraged to wear long pants and women to cover knees and shoulders.
Although we did not witness it, a security guard is near the famous Buddha face. Should onlookers get too close to the mysterious tree entwined head, the guard reportedly blows his whistle. Always a travel tip we suggest is to never irritate a guard.
Where is the Buddha Head in Tree Roots?
The ancient capital of Siam, Ayutthaya (in full Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya) and just to confuse things also spelled Ayudhya, Ayuthia or Aythaya, is 80 km (about 50 miles) north of Bangkok.
Located on an island, the city was founded at the confluence of the Chao Phraya, Lop Buri and Pa Sak rivers. Visiting can be done as a day trip from the Thailand capital or as a stopover while heading farther north to destinations such as Chang Mai.
Our stop was part of a cycling tour. Bicycles are an easy way to explore the sites both in and around Ayutthaya Historical Park but keep in mind the high temperatures and humidity before setting out on a bike. Tuk-tuks can also be hired. One of the most common ways for tourists to explore the temples is through an organized tour.
It seems we will never know the how the face came to rest in Ayutthaya. Have you heard of the Buddha face in the tree roots?
I can vaguely recall seeing photos of this but never really knew much about it. Thanks for the info – now of course I want to see it in person!
Lexie isn’t that the way? If one thing blogging has done for me is increase the travel list to endless lengths. I’m blaming or thanking you for adding Mongolia. 🙂
Yes one more for you here. I have been going through past trips and realizing just how much we saw in SE Asia and how much of it never made it to the blog.
I had never heard of this, but my only visit to Thailand was on business. I would love to go back for a better look.
Ray if you ever have the chance I would recommend it. The many other temples nearby are fascinating as well. Being close to Bangkok makes it quite doable.
i never heard of this before, Sue and thank you for another informative post. we might be going to Thailand early next year and i’d be interested to see it in person. happy weekend! 🙂
Lola that is exciting that you have a trip to Thailand in the planning. There are many temples in the Ayutthaya area so I think it would be a worthwhile day trip.
We’ve never heard of that, Sue…but it reminds us of the banyan at the Thomas Edison winter home in Fort Myers, Florida. And we agree about blogging making us want to visit somewhere. We just visited the Grace Darling memorial in the UK as a result of reading about it on A Bit About Britain. How lucky we are to live in this age.
Isn’t that the truth? Since starting blogging I have learned so much about parts of the world. Of course i will have to live to be 150 and in good health to make a dent in the list of places I wish to see now. 🙂
Sue, I wanted to visit this place during our travels in Thailand few years ago, but unfortunately we did not have enough time. But it will definitely be on our wish list for next time. Would one day be enough to explore this area?
Gilda I think that depends how much you like exploring temples. There are quite a few in the area so I think an overnight if you are coming from Bangkok might make it a more enjoyable day. Having said that we were cycling through and I was quite content with the amount of time. Not a great help am I?
Sue, I actually have not seen this image before, but we have been fully educated about the importance of the Banyan tree in Buddhism from our travels in Indonesia and Sri Lanka. The visuals did bring back a memory of the caves near Luang Prabang in Laos, where all the damaged Buddhas have a final respectful resting place, large and tiny and every size in between… wooden, marble, metal etc. It was an incredible experience being surrounded by so many Buddha faces and somehow your one solitary Buddha face evoked the memory of the visual of so many all in one place!
Peta
What an extraordinary place that must be Peta. I have a sense of awe just reading your description of it. I’m happy this solitary Buddha brought back that experience for you.
I’ve been keeping a very loose eye on your travels through Facebook, Sue, but had neither time nor inclination to do a whole lot of visiting on the blogs. I think maybe it’s the end of an era for me, but I will always respect and admire your and Dave’s contributions to our world, and wish you well. Hugs, sweetheart!
Life is filled with many chapters and it sounds like one of yours may be nearing conclusion Jo. I adore you dear one and have so enjoyed getting to know you over these years. I’ll keep watching for you on Facebook and Instagram but most of all sending you love and very best wishes for the next chapter. You are one of the kindest people I’ve ever had the pleasure of connecting with. Xo
This is awesome. We have been to Thailand, but not here. Thank You for this post.
Happy weekend!
No matter how much we travel it seems there is always more to see. I’m happy to share this little gem with you. Happy weekend to you as well.
As always, an interesting post about something I knew nothing about! You’ve given me yet one more reason to feel sad I never made it to Thailand.
I’m sorry my friend. That was such a disappointment. To balance that you will recall I almost melted into the roads of Thailand even in the coolest month of the year. 😊
I hadn’t heard of the Buddha face in the tree. Great mystery. I love your information photos. Ayutthaya sounds like a lovely place to visit. You guys sure are filling up my bucket list!
Wendy this area would be a wonder for your Fine Art photography. The lists just seem to be ever growing don’t they?
Very interesting. I’d never heard of it but it immediately reminded me of Angkor Wat where much is being devoured by nature.
This cocooned Buddha head is quite lovely.
Definitely much like Angkor Wat and those incredible trees. I’m smiling thinking of the Buddha being cocooned. I adore that description.
I have been wanting to visit Ayutthaya for a loooong time, and despite having been to Thailand three times, I only ended up exploring Bangkok. I love that last photo, Sue, as it is an angle of the Buddha head rarely seen on the internet. It gives me an idea of its environs and believe me or not, that one photo really makes me want to book a trip to Bangkok (combined with a visit to Ayutthaya) now! Well, that’s not going to happen anytime soon, though.
Well a time in the future perhaps Bama. Thank you for the kind feedback about the photos. It is amazing how just a bit of a different angle can create a much different perspective.
It doesn’t look like my comment took.
I remember Ayutthaya being a capital of Thailand. I do think I’ve visited the town briefly in my early twenties, but have never heard of the Buddha head in the tree, How bizarre. And it’s only this one in this particular place, I assume? I had no idea it was on the tourist radar as well. Thanks for the enlightenment, Sue. 🙂
Just checking whether my second comment attempt took! 🙂
It did indeed Liesbet. Thank you!
Liesbet this one came through! Perhaps the Buddha has gained popularity over the years.
Sue I had not heard of this but know so many Buddha legends are shared in Thailand. I love those banyan trees though. Seems like banyan tree hotels – name in title – pop up all over SE Asia; Thailand and Bali, in particular.
Happy to share this with you Ryan and thank you for sharing the post on Twitter. Your support is something I am very grateful for.
Seeing the face in the tree feels loving and protective to me. I think the rumors and stories make places more interesting. It certainly gives you something to think about when you are visiting. It always saddens me ways people will be disrespectful. We’ve seen it time and time again.
The words loving and protective bring me comfort Laura. I’d like to think the Buddha head is at peace. The disrespect we have seen at such places makes me
shudder. We do our best to set an example. A small bit one can do.
Interesting…!
Banyan trees are always amazing!
This could happen here with all the Wild Ivy taking over many forests! Lol!
Neat! You’re right, Sue, in suggesting it could be made into a sinister story of what befell the (rumored) thief. However, with the Buddha’s beatific expression, I prefer to think he’s watching the world and its people, amused (and maybe a little bemused) and all-knowing. Thank you for sharing; it leaves me with a good, cheerful feeling, honestly!
This looks amazing. Thanks for sharing. It’s a piece of natural art as the tree roots frame the face. It’s these unusual things that make travelling so special.
Interesting 🙂
Glad you found it so Joshi.
Not heard of the Buddha face in tree roots before but what an interesting story. Especially as it’s obviously become a more special place due to the tree covering the face. The whole temple looks fascinating though.
Jonno so true in that the Buddha face is just one small part of a huge complex. I’ll hope to write more about the area over time.
I haven’t seen any images of this previously. I think the Buddha is being cared for and supported by the tree. He looks content to me.
Annie I like that vision as well. He does look content doesn’t he?
Great post and as always so informative Sue. I have seen a pic of the Buddha head, but didn’t know where it was located, etc.
Thank you Kirt. Prior to our trip I too had seen the picture of it but would not have had a clue where it was. Travel is such a great teacher.
Hope you are continuing to recover well!
So wonderful to get this guided tour of the Buddha head, Sue, and I appreciated the photos from all angles. Banyan trees have a way of taking over, and I think it’s really cool how this one grew around the Buddha. Thank you!
They are fascinating trees I agree Jet. Perhaps no greater a demonstration of that then at places like Angkor Wat. But this Buddha head peeking out really is captivating. Thanks for taking the time to read and visit. Always a delight to see you here.
Sue, I love these photos of plants swallowing buildings and statues. They’re a good reminder that anything man can do, nature can undo. And like most travelers, they make me want to pack a bag and zoom off. And they’re also very photogenic, as your post demonstrates. Terri and I are well and are now in the UK after a few weeks of training around the island . I hope all is going well on your end. ~ James
I’ve just been reading of your dinosaur adventures and glad to know you are both well. I’ll look forward to tales from the UK. We are doing well and getting ready to depart for Jordan with stops in Europe in about 10 days. So as usual the list of preparations seems long , which seems odd if one is only taking carry on luggage. Best wishes to you both!
You guys are going to love Petra. Have a great trip.
Thanks James. Really looking forward to it.
I’m surprised that the tree roots haven’t completely engulfed the Buddha’s face over time. Maybe there’s some divine protection happening there… or the guards have a secret pruning regime… 😉
Diane I had not thought about that until you mentioned it. As much as I would love to think that the face has some extraordinary power to keep it free from the branches my guess is that it has received a helping hand or hedge trimmer over time.
What glorious explorations! Reminds me of my time in Cambodia where also the temple ruins have been overtaken by the jungle. There’s something very alluring about this mixture of nature and abandoned human-made architecture.
We had a great time visiting there. I heard northern Thailand is also beautiful!
Wonderful that you have seen the Buddha head too Amy. You are the first person to comment that you have. So much beauty in Thailand and so much to explore.
In Cambodia, I have seen these trees with heads, walls, windows, and roofs inside of them. Unforgettable impressions.
Cambodia is a wonder filled country to be sure Victor. The power of the trees there is incredible
as they seem to swallow up anything in the way.
I had seen this picture but never tried to learn the history about it. I feel so glad that I read your article and learned some new info. I will make sure to visit this temple during my next visit this year. Thank you a lot for your hard work and keep sharing such nice posts in the future.