“The locals hate tourists on bicycles.” It is a discouraging introduction from our Amsterdam cycling guide, as the rain pelts down mercilessly on our waterproof ponchos.
“Whatever you do don’t stop in the middle of the bike path and get in an Amsterdam cyclist’s way. They are on their way to work or home and they mean business. They hate tourists who get in their way.”
Yes I think you mentioned that previously.
How bad can it really be? We smile at each other thinking our Amsterdam cycling tour guide is exaggerating. After all we are experienced cyclists, having ridden bicycles in countries like Peru and South Africa.
The Netherlands capital has over 515 kilometers (320 miles) of cycling paths. Isn’t Amsterdam considered one of the most bike friendly cities in the world?
Interested in learning more about Amsterdam? Read this.
Crooked Amsterdam Buildings – To Lean or Not to Lean
Amsterdam Cycling – Stay in your bike lane
Our Amsterdam bike tour group huddles near our leader, listening intently, as water drips steadily from our cold fingers, clutching bike handlebars.
“Now I want the tallest person in the very back so I will be able to see where the group ends.”
Possibly just before a tram or irate Dutch cyclist runs him over.
“Whatever you do don’t get your bicycle tire stuck in a tram track.”
If you do prepare to abandon ship, or bike in this case, and run for your life, is my interpretation of the instructions.
“Stay in the cycle lane and don’t go out of it. Just watch for the signs.”
That seems easy enough. Unless buckets of water fall from the sky, turning my gigantic hood into a blindfold.
Forget the hood. I think I will need to be able to see to survive.
There are several types of designated cycling lanes (fietspad) throughout the city. Our Amsterdam cycling tour weaves from the paths marked on roads, to those separated by a barrier, from the pavement.
I am a big fan of having more than six inches of space between myself and impatient drivers of vehicles.
There is no waving or smiling at Amsterdam bikes being ridden by tourists. More like eye-twitching tolerance.
Our guide rides the maze of Amsterdam bike routes seamlessly. We drenched cycling ducks follow as best we can, trying to stay out of the way of muttering local Amsterdam cyclists.
The leader of the soppy group glances backwards frequently. Likely looking to see if the tallest rider at the end of the line requires an ambulance.
Amsterdam bike tour
Should I wear a helmet cycling in Amsterdam?
When searching for bike rental Amsterdam, may we suggest this be one of your first questions.
“Excuse me does your Amsterdam bike shop include helmets with bike rentals?”
For many of us in North America, the concept of keeping our brain intact while cycling is a standard practice. Not so here. Amsterdam bike routes are the busiest we have witnessed in the world. Not a bicycle helmet to be seen.
Our advice is this. If Amsterdam cycling is in your future, wear a helmet. You may have to bring your own. We did not have helmets with us and made the assumption the Amsterdam bike shop would have them for rent.
Amsterdam Bike Theft – Hang on to your ride
Estimates are that 200 bikes a day are stolen in Amsterdam.
Our guide tells us no local would ever park an expensive bike in a public area.
“What about using a lock?” I ask.
“Oh they just cut it off. That’s why you see such ‘junky’ bicycles everywhere. That way they won’t get stolen, and if they do no one cares.”
Our guide goes on to tell us her expensive bike was stolen the previous year. Months later she sees her bike. When she confronts the thief, he quickly apologizes. Explaining how he has fixed a problem with the bicycle chain, as if that might appease her, he also offers to buy her a beer.
She declines.
“A lot of bikes also are thrown in the canals.”
Over 12,000 a year I read later. That seems like a serious mischief problem.
Did I mention I thought I understood Amsterdam to be one of the friendliest cycling cities in the world?
Don’t drink and ride your bike in Amsterdam
Amsterdam may be known for its liberal views on lifestyle choices, but riding your bicycle while under the influence is illegal.
Our guide surmises that some of the Amsterdam bikes in the canals are courtesy of riders who are so drunk they accompany their bikes into the water.
Besides the legal issue, managing to stay in the correct lane, without running over selfie snapping tourists or being flattened by an electric scooter, requires one to be alert.
I suggest saving the beer for the celebration that you lived to tell the tale of your bike ride in Amsterdam.
Tips for Cycling in Amsterdam
It is not often we suggest to avoid an activity, but rather than cycling in Amsterdam, we suggest you book a guided tour with a bike shop in Amsterdam, for a bike tour outside of the city. Think tulip fields and windmills rather than hissing locals while weaving through the mobs of pedestrian tourists.
If you truly want to do a bicycle rental within the city, research out Amsterdam guided tours. At least the guide will be watching for you should you have an altercation with a pedestrian, cyclist, automobile, tram or all of the above.
Amsterdam guided tours are the best way to cycle busy streets
Unless you are having a heart attack do not stop in the middle of the path.
Don’t wear headphones. You will need to hear what is going on around you. This includes the irritation in the voice of the local Amsterdam bike riders.
Stick to the designated cycling lanes. No exceptions.
Do not buy a bike off the street. If a deal is too good to be true you are likely buying a stolen bike. Amsterdam bike theft is big business.
Cross any tram track at an angle so your Amsterdam bicycle doesn’t wedge itself between the tracks as if instantly super-glued in place.
Keep smiling. Your Amsterdam bicycle experience will be one to remember.
Bike ride Amsterdam style
Have you visited Amsterdam?
Sounds like an interesting ‘adventure’. Nice to see Dave smiling. So you must’ve had a good time and entertaining to say the least.
Ingrid we always do our best to take away the positives and smile through most anything. We did see a lot of the city. However we felt it would be important to share that if we who are very comfortable city and road cycling felt in danger, we should share that with our readers.
Wow. I had no idea about this, and frankly I would never ride a bike in that city now that I know. In the country, yes but wow. How rude the locals are! Apparently there is no real punishment for bike theft, and I hope no propellers are hitting the sunken bikes. I never wear a helmet on my $700 Kona bike!
John I think part of the Amsterdam issue is that tourism has overtaken the city and the locals are feeling the strain. They use bikes like we use cars. All they want to do is to get to work, or home from work and tourists are keeping them from doing so. The canals are cleaned out regularly so I haven’t read about any issues with the boats. As to helmets it is the old emergency room nurse in me that wants my noggin protected. A personal choice for sure.
Bikes do have the right of way in Holland and even walking can be dangerous if you are not aware of that fact. I mention the large number of bikes in Amsterdam in my Amada in Holland book. I wasn’t aware of the bikes in the canals which would have been a fun thing to include. Oh well, as you know, I borrowed a couple of other things from you! To be safe, we took the canal boats to get around when we were there.
Darlene I was thinking of you and your book when I was writing this article. I agree walking itself can be a challenge in Amsterdam. Part of the issue I believe is just the massive amounts of tourists in the city even in the off season. A city never built to handle such numbers. I agree a boat tour was a lovely reprieve from the crowded streets. As to the bikes in the canals I never would have guessed that until the guide mentioned it. Then I found articles and photos of the canals being scooped for stray bicycles!
OK, thanks. I will definitely “steer” clear of cycling in Amsterdam. And most certainly, I won’t pee in the street 😉 Seriously, great info. Thank you for including the good & not so good experiences. It helps a lot.
Isn’t that sign hilarious? It apparently became a big issue as there are few public toilets. Now Amsterdam has some outdoor public urinals. Apparently this is keeping people from falling into the canals while relieving themselves. Just in case you wanted to know more about that. 🙂
I appreciate the feedback Wendy about sharing not only the good things about travel but the challenges. It is reassuring to know we are on the right track.
Yikes. It was on our list of cities to cycle in…We will now have to give it some thought…Very helpful info, Sue! Thanks for all your wonderful blog posts!
Lovely to hear from you Anna! Hoping all is well with you and the family.
We highly recommend cycling in the Netherlands, but not in Amsterdam. We were there in off season, so I can not even imagine the congestion during school breaks. I’m sure you could get through it but a fairly stressful experience in our opinion and we have cycled in Rome. 🙂
I will consider myself warned. This does not sound like my idea of a good time.
I had a similar cycling experience in Copenhagen. Nor would I consider riding my bike on Toronto’s Waterfront Trail on a sunny, summer afternoon. Life is simply too short for those kinds of adventures.
Joanne how interesting that you felt the same way in Copenhagen, not to mention Toronto. Cycling is a delightful sport but when combined with intense traffic of multiple varieties it definitely loses its glimmer of fun. Yes life is to short to be trampled on a cycling path or worse.
Well, Alie’s RA prevents her riding a bike. But if I once envied those on bikes in Amsterdam, you effectively killed that. 🙂
Apologies for taking the joy out of the vision Ray. If you imagine yourself outside of Amsterdam, cycling by tulip fields, now that is a wonderful thing to dream of.
I haven’t been to Amsterdam but I have experienced local cyclists in other European cities. They are not to be taken lightly. I’m always amazed by their skill and confidence and complete lack of fear. I’m not a good cyclist so I’ll continue to explore these cities on foot.
It is incredible to watch the locals of Amsterdam and their riding abilities and lack of concern for the chaos of pedestrians, bicycles, trams and cars. I’d say we are highly skilled cyclists and still we found Amsterdam cycling to be some of the most dangerous we had done anywhere in the world.
Such a funny post, Sue! I can totally imagine being a tourist in Amsterdam and being chased off the bike paths. Yes, they do ride them hard there. 🙂
Outside of Amsterdam, biking seems like a delight, with all those separate bike lanes. My suggestion: go to Belgium for your next bike vacation. Lovely scenery and beautiful bike paths. As long as you avoid the cities there as well. I don’t remember the infrastructure being as good in Belgian cities than in Dutch ones, though.
Liesbet I am always delighted when someone picks up my attempts at being funny. Thanks for that! We have not yet been to Belgium and I wasn’t aware it was so cycling friendly. I love the idea of bike paths exploring the countryside.
Sue, you guys are brave to cycle in Amsterdam, even with a tour group. When I visited with my sisters we thought about hiring a bike, but our Airbnb host totally discouraged us, telling us about all of the above points. But we still loved the city. Thank you for such an interesting and fun post.
Gilda that is interesting that your host, who I assume was local, warned you about cycling in Amsterdam. Wise advice. We too loved the city itself but I knew in my heart this article needed to be written. I never like to discourage people from being active, but in this case it is walk don’t ride for your own well being. Thanks so much for the feedback Gilda. Truly appreciated.
Yes, I was in Amsterdam for about 3 days with a sis, long before cycling bug bit me. We didn’t bike.
I have read about cycling culture in Amersterdam and believe it. We rode in Copenhagen. I was on my own for 4 days, while dearie was at a cycling conference.
Yes, the Danish commuter cyclists are focused and competent. Like the Amsterdam Dutch, I would be focused as well as a cyclist and bike steadily. It is not for lahdeda, wandering cyclists.
Jean that is a perfect way to describe tourists cycling in Amsterdam “lahdeda’. I can appreciate that for those living in these cities they are focused on getting to where they are going and those of us visiting are obstacles.
When I spent the summer in AMS–one block over from your shot w/KLM building–I saw the barge w/a crane working its way down the canal, scooping up bikes from the water. When walking down the street, if too close to the bike path (or accidentally in it) locals will not move “around” you, they will ride their bike right next to you…once one of them hit my arm with a handle bar. Still, Amsterdam is still my favorite city. And one thing I LOVE is that you’re not required to wear a helmet…I know, I know.
What a delightful surprise to find you here Keith..aka Badfish. I would have loved to see the Amsterdam bike scooping you describe. Apparently still a regular cleaning event. I agree that being a pedestrian in Amsterdam you best be staying out of the way of local riders who are equally non-amused with pedestrians gawking and wandering about.As to helmet wearing a personal choice. My years of emergency room nursing give me a far different view.
Years ago, when my brother was living in Wassenaar, just outside Amsterdam, he insisted we take a little bike ride around town with him. Well, even that was intimidating! I can’t imagine inserting myself into the peloton on the city streets of Amsterdam! Very fun and funny post on what probably looks like a fun little activity to visitors.
Lexie I am glad you saw the fun inserted in the post. Always a relief to know someone picked up on my attempts at being funny. 🙂
I do think many who travel hear that Amsterdam is bike friendly and thus get on a cycling tour or get a bike from an Amsterdam bike rental. The reality is far different. I am guessing that your brother, and those who live in the area, become skilled in the culture of riding in such congestion.
Hey s and d
Your posts are so valuable – and this one especially
I have been in some cities where bikes are the everyday transportation for residents and have seen some resistance to the tourists – and the Amsterdam experiences – with your tips and humor – makes this a fun post and one to bookmark for when we visit someday!!
That is very kind of you Y. Thanks for that feedback. More and more I feel the need to share the whole picture of a destination, not just the bright and shiny bits so to speak. Cycling in Amsterdam should be avoided by tourists but not the city. It is a fabulous destination but one suffering from overtourism. If you do go try to avoid high season at all costs. This was off season and it still was crowded. I can not imagine what Amsterdam in the summer would look like.
Great post Sue, I would never have imagined Amsterdam being that way for tourist bikers. Glad you posted a “heads up” for folks! I would have been drained not from biking, but from the stress of paying attention to every detail of the process! Have a great week!
Kirt that is exactly how we felt on our Amsterdam bikes. One could never really get going very fast and the roads are flat like pancakes. However the feeling of having to have eyes in the back of one’s head, or at the very least the sides, left us drained. I can’t imagine how someone new to cycling might feel.
That sounds horrifying! I had already crossed it off my to-do list after I got as far as ‘bicycling in the rain’, but bicycling in hostile territory is DEFINITELY a no-go for me. (I did get a chuckle from the “Don’t pee in the street” sign, though!) 🙂
Isn’t that sign hilarious? Our guide told us that this became a big issue in Amsterdam, obviously by the size of the sign and the size of the fine. She also mentioned fellows who were rather tipsy would fall in the canals while urinating. Perhaps they could just grab a bicycle while splashing about and rice on out. 🙂
Interesting post with some very pertinent information about bike riding in Amsterdam. The last time we were there, a few summers ago, I almost got run down by local bikers, no doubt my fault as I was standing in the wrong place, but the sheer speed that those bikers ride at, is definitely unusual for city bikers! And yes… no helmets either. We unfortunately witnessed a biker getting hit by a car, totally the driver of the car was at fault by swerving too widely at a corner, but it just added to my beliefs that riding a bike in Amsterdam is full of hazards even for those that consider themselves to be really good bikers. Our home exchange host told us that locals are at a point of total annoyance with the influx of tourists and the fact that Air BnB has such a grip on the market that rents have gone way up for locals. A lot of bad will and some conflict has become the norm between tourists and locals who are way past irritated.
Still… we have to love Amsterdam, it IS one of our favorite places. Just be very careful where you walk and make sure you are not on a bike path when you do!
Peta
Peta I well remember your time in Amsterdam. As we wandered by the many houseboats I couldn’t help but wonder if it was one that you stayed in.
We too, when walking, managed to get in the way of local cyclists. their frustration with over tourism is understandable. I think i might feel the same way. Here in summer we avoid the town of Banff for the same reason, or at least go early in the morning or late in the evening.
Like you, we loved the city of Amsterdam. However we felt our readers should be aware this is not the place to get on a bike.
Having visited the city, I can attest that what you write here is solid advice.
You and Dave are very brave to bicycle here in this City of Many Bikes, and I so enjoyed hearing of your experiences, Sue. Had to chuckle several times at some of your comments…and what a pleasure to see Dave smiling. There is a lot to love in Amsterdam, but I think I’ll skip the bike riding experience.
Jet you are so right in that Amsterdam is a fabulous city. So much to see and do and best done in any other fashion than on a bicycle! I’m glad you had a chuckle. Always a relief when readers get the jokes. Thanks ever so much for the visit.
Never would have guessed!
Unfortunately I disagree with your article. As an owner and guide at a tour firm, I feel your guide let you down. She has painted a negative picture of the city’s locals and probably has attracted blame by not controlling and managing her group safely. Some guides I have seen explain that locals hate tourists, yet go onto block pavements with no consideration of the locals… And, no matter where you live, locals dislike disrespect by tour groups. This is unsustainable tourism.
The groups we run are classed as small bike groups, maximum 6 people… Manageable and safe, no disruption to local traffic. The groups other firms run are sold as small group, 15 people max, blocking routes with guides barely out of their teens, self interested, with no consideration of the damage they cause locals, fuelling their own belief, which they pass onto friendly and caring tourist. I have witnessed first hand many, as I like to mystery shop tours to see their products.
On the cycle helmet rule, actually deaths and injuries by cyclist in the Netherlands are lowest in comparison to pretty much the world, if you consider that every single person cycles. Meaning drivers are very careful of cyclists, as they understand the dynamic, as they cycle themselves.
I would say that it is a country fit for cycling in, as you really are king of the road. However, you must follow the rules, which are simple, and it is best to get a tour, but shop wisely, look out for the “scourge of unsustainable tourism” of large groups, anything over 10, is too many.
Martin I very much appreciate you taking the time to share your perspective. Having only six participants would make a far better experience for both guests and locals.
As a former emergency room nurse, you won’t change my mind on helmets. It’s a personal choice I know.
Perhaps with the pandemic it will help to deal with the issues of overtourism. I hope more companies like yours will become the norm in Amsterdam. The groups we saw during our stay were all large.
Oh aSue and Dave I completely missed this post when it was first posted but have enjoyed going through your Top 10 post and checking which ones I may have missed! This was brilliant :), I loved reading it and smiled as I went through your tips. We did a cycling tour out in the countryside for a week but it started in the city, and agree with your thoughts and advice. We enjoyed the cycling (once we got out of the city) and our tour included helmets for which we were thankful for. It was a wonderful experience for us and now we can’t travel for some time the memories keep us amused.
You were far wiser than us to book a tour outside of the city. We felt time constrained as Amsterdam was a stopover for us but in hindsight, it would have been far better. Glad to hear of the helmets as well! I agree that having these memories is part of what has kept us positive during these past months. We are so grateful for all of the adventures and thankful we didn’t wait to travel.
Wow lots of warning. I can believe the high daily bike theft…and now that there is world-wide shortage of new bikes due to pandemic and more people wanting to ride because it’s safer than public transit in non-snowy weather..
I did bike for 5 days in Copenhagen, another cycling-intensive city. When cycling becomes a daily transportation method, yes one doesn’t wave to other cyclists nor wear headphones/ear buds for music.
I wonder if Amsterdam has seen any change to their bike theft since the pandemic. It seems Calgary has its fair share of it.